Purushottama’s photographs from a visit in 2007 to this historic town in Madhya Pradesh, with captions by Amido (Part 2)
The historical ruins that surround Orchha (described in Part 1 of this article: Orchha: Life amongst ancient ruins) very much permeate life as it is lived today. As fascinating as the ancient ruins of Orchha are, the lives of those who live in this small town are equally so.
(click on images to see fullscreen)
L: An iconic image of India. Such skill in overloading a vehicle, whether it is a whole family arranged on a scooter or a truck with its load ballooning outward.
R: The houses are whitewashed with brightly painted doors and windows. This one is exceptionally well decorated, and both the bicycle and the dog have chosen it for their mid-afternoon nap.
L: This open door proved an irresistible invitation. So here is a peek inside to see the vessels arranged on the shelf and the well-swept space.
R: Is the harmony of colors entirely accidental? The sari enhances the beauty of this young woman as she pauses momentarily in the doorway against a perfectly color-coordinated backdrop.
Living within the ruins, with their fusion of Rajput and Mughal architectural influences, affects the way local residents decorate their homes. The details above the door and windows echo what can be seen within the palaces.
All over India, cows – considered holy – wander the streets. This one looks relatively well nourished. (When we were in Varanasi, a cow walked into a fabric store with a tiled floor and lay down. The owner explained that every afternoon she visited to cool off!) This somehow illustrates an alluring aspect of India.
L: Some people are just too big for their world.
R: This used to be a common sight in rural areas of India, but perhaps no longer, since the economy and technology have surged in the last 20 years or so. Many people would gather to watch a rare television. The crowds would become particularly dense when a cricket game was on.
L: Everyone is drawn to the market, regardless of their means.
R: How does he keep his clothes so white?
L: A local sadhu seated in front of a map. Perhaps he is contemplating, “Who am I?” or maybe, “Where am I?”
R: A family portrait. The daughter (not in the picture) befriended me and took us to meet her family. They arranged themselves so picturesquely, quite by chance; they are simply exiting their home.
A group of women pause their conversation to look at Purushottama as he captures this cascade of colors and expressions.
A number of magnificent moustaches! Are they preparing for a celebration?
I could identify only one of the musical instruments. The dholak, made from mango wood, is a hand drum with two drumheads of different sizes. Treble notes are created by playing the smaller head (covered in goatskin), and bass notes are created by the larger one (covered in buffalo skin).
One man is playing an ektara and the other is holding one. Eka means one and tara means string. The single string is stretched over a resonator made of gourd, wood, or coconut. The ektara has a long neck made of bamboo. It is played by plucking the single string with a finger or plectrum and adjusting its tension, which changes the pitch. It is popular – because it is so portable – with sadhus for singing devotional songs.
It has been a long day. (The vertical white chalk marks on his forehead indicate that he is a follower of Vishnu.)
L: Axe heads sold by the kilogram.
R: The Chaturbhuj Temple is reflected in his glasses.
These vivid powdered pigments have a variety of uses. They are made into a kind of paste to apply to the forehead; they are mixed with water and thrown at people during Holi celebrations; and they are used to create intricate designs on the ground, particularly during festivals. (In some places in India, every morning you can see women, after sweeping the area outside their homes, carefully using powdered white chalk to create geometric designs on the ground.)
L: The ruins are a place to meet friends…
R: And to keep cool!
L: Evening time, and the setting sun enhances the yellow of the background door and window. Here, mother and daughter appear to have had a pretty good day!
R: As evening approaches, a sadhu stands perfectly centered in the window of the ruins. Mountains form the distant backdrop and, in the foreground, the ubiquitous gulmohar tree.
Comments are closed.