Part 3 of Surendra’s research into Shinto mythology
Okuninushi, the deity of Izumo Taisha
All Shinto shrines in Japan are dedicated to one or more spirits, or kami. The deity of Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine is Okuninushi. He is descended from Susano’o, the lord of the oceans. Okuninushi and Izumo featured in all the earliest written records in Japan that originated in the 7th century. According to legends, Okuninushi was instrumental in developing and maintaining the land of Japan in its early stages. Over time, further east, other political centres began to expand. As Nara became more important, twists in the traditional legends emerged.
It was said that Amaterasu, the sun goddess in the high heavens, was not satisfied with Okuninushi’s administration of Japan. She demanded that Okuninushi hand over his role to her family. After a struggle, Okuninushi accepted retirement. In exchange, the gods constructed a palace for him: Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine. Okuninushi moved to the invisible world and continued to maintain a hidden influence over the affairs of Japan from this shrine.
Amaterasu’s grandson, Ninigi, took over the mundane matters. This marked the beginning of the Imperial lineage and the appointment of the first Emperor. Amaterasu, the sun goddess, became his principle ancestor. Through Amaterasu, Japan established its divine origins as a country. By then, the flag of Japan had emerged as a single vermilion disc in the centre of a white background.
Izumo Taisha retains an important role
A staunch band of supporters continued to emphasise the importance of Izumo Taisha as one of the oldest shrines in Japan. Although many believe it is the oldest shrine in Japan, a problem in dating the origins of Shinto shrines is that they were invariably rebuilt, every few decades. Wood is not a highly durable material. As well as preservation, this reconstruction was important for apprentices to develop their advanced skills in carpentry. Nails and glue were never used, the whole structure was held together by highly complex joints with as many as sixteen interlocking components.
There is another reason for the lasting importance of this grand shrine. The established belief is that it hosts an annual conference for all the kami in Japan – estimated at eighty million! There are two Jukusha, very large buildings, within the shrine compound provided just for this purpose.
The scheduling of the meeting follows the cycles of the moon and usually comes in October. Throughout most of Japan, the calendar describes this as the month ‘without deities’. In Izumo province, October is known as the month ‘with all deities’.
Okuninushi is believed to have established agriculture and the arts of healing and natural medicine. But he is primarily appreciated for his power over mating and partner relationships. Many couples seek his blessings at Izumo Taisha. Individuals who long to find a partner seek help in getting one.
Not surprisingly, the conference of the gods has partner connections and their arrangement throughout Japan at the top of the agenda. It is a sombre affair as the task is seen as an extremely arduous and challenging one, even for the gods!
Izumo Taisha Layout
Izumo is in the south west side of Japan. Like a number of well-established shrines, Izumo Taisha is a large compound of buildings interspersed with gardens and includes a small forest. Also common are smaller shrines within the main shrine grounds and Izumo Taisha has several.
The entrance to all shrines start with a Torii gate. This indicates a boundary between the spiritual and secular world. Izumo Taisha has more than three Torii gates. The first, a huge concrete structure, begins at the end of Izumo city. It leads to a railway station dedicated to the shrine. Beyond, a narrow road, lined with gift shops and restaurants goes up a small hill. It passes two old Japanese traditional hostels, or ryokan, and arrives at the second Torii gate made of bronze. The shrine grounds begin inside this gate.
A well-made and busy walkway, for pedestrians only, slopes downwards. It passes gnarled trees and well-tended gardens. On the right is the beautifully peaceful, Pond of Purity with space for sitting quietly.
On the left is the Chokushikan shrine, noted for its architectural achievement.
Down the middle, is the ‘Path of Pines’. Over 400 years ago, 100 trees were donated by the wife of a local lord. They were planted in two rows to form an avenue that takes us to the main shrine buildings. The trees have been carefully looked after. Judicious pruning and various bamboo supports have been devised to keep the trees standing. So far 63 trees have survived.
Behind the trees to the right are two bronze statues facing each other. They depict Okuninushi (on the right) receiving blessings from all the heavenly kami to rule the islands of Japan. This event is depicted by a golden orb on top of a wave. A couple standing in the bottom right corner of this picture indicate not only the size of the statues but the ancient trees as well.
Behind another Torii gate, is the main hall of worship, the Haiden. Its distinguishing feature is a length of huge rope, the shimenawa. It designates the presence of the shrine deity. Other shimenawa can be found in Japanese shrines, particularly in Izumo. This is the largest. It was made from 3 hectares of rice. Plaited from lengths of rice straw totalling 13.5 metres, it weighs around 4.5 tons. To keep its pristine condition, it is replaced every six years by a local group of up to 800 volunteers. Cranes are needed to manoeuvre the shimenawa in and out of position.
A shimenawa appears in the early legends about Amaterasu, the sun goddess. After retreating to a cave and leaving the world in darkness, she was enticed and pulled out by earthly gods. Any attempt from her to return to the cave was then blocked by a large shimenawa.
There is a closed area behind the Haiden that is not available to the public. The front is flanked by the two meeting halls (Jakusha) for the annual gathering of the kami. A sense of the scale of this building can be felt by looking at the water trough, chozu-ya, on the left used for ritual hand washing.
A double, very solid fence continues around the whole of the perimeter of this inner sanctuary. Inside are several buildings including the tallest shrine in Japan, standing at 24 metres. Most of the buildings have a double set of scissor-shaped finials at their gable ends known as chigi.
Walking around the outside of the inner sanctuary takes us to another, small, two-storey shrine at the back, Sogano Yashiro. Susano’o, god of the sea and storms and ancestor of Okuninushi, is enshrined here.
The solid rock face immediately behind this shrine is part of the Izumo Taisha periphery. Densely shaded, it is perpetually damp, mottled with green and glistening with moisture. Unofficial sources have declared this rock to be a significant power spot in the area. My partner, Amrapali, and I do not usually bother much about such claims.
Reaching this point towards the end of one of our visits, we were tired and ready to leave. After standing for about five minutes with our palms on the rock face, we felt refreshed and invigorated. We took in this energy gratefully, recognising that it was not the same as taking a rest on a park bench.
A number of shrines in Japan, including Izumo Taisha, are known to encompass unseen worlds. Events within their territory do not necessarily engender logical or predictable experiences. They carry frequencies that can be felt but remain a mystery.
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- Follow Surendra’s whole series: Japan’s Mythology
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