Striking vermilion: Hinomisaki Shrine

Surendra’s photographs from his visit to a Shinto shrine on Cape Hino in Japan (Part 4 of the series)

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North west, along the rugged coastline from Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine is Hinomisaki Shrine. The date of its construction is unknown but it was built after Izumo Taisha. Today, the Hinomisaki Shrine is under the umbrella of Izumo Taisha. In earlier times, the Hinomisaki Shrine might have attempted to be a rival.

The other famous ancient shrine in Japan is the Ise Grand Shrine. It is some distance to the east of Izumo, in Mie. For some time Ise Grand Shrine was the guardian of Japan during the day. When the sun set in the west, Izumo Taisha took over the protective role until dawn. As a shrine of the night, it also became the guardian of the underworld, including Yomi, the land of the dead.

The setting sun

The Hinomisaki Shrine is a few miles west of Izumo in the direct line of the setting sun. In this sense it usurped the position of Izumo Taisha as the final place for the sun in Japan to disappear into the sea. The priesthood of the Hinomisaki Shrine has been in the hands of one family since its inception and might well have wanted its importance to be acknowledged.

For many years Izumo people have gathered along the coast to watch the sunsets. Apparently, they are not very particular about which vantage point they choose. It is the crimson colours in the water that bring delight.

Striking vermilion

As can be seen, the overwhelming feature of this shrine is the vermilion colour of the wood. There are said to be several reasons for this choice. Being near the sea, the buildings are more prone to weathering and rot. Protective paints, probably originally using lead oxide, were chosen to extend the life of the wood. As the colour of the sun, vermilion, is also an invigorating colour and the colour of life. Vermilion is said to ward off evil sprits and bad luck. Although uncommon, a few other shrines dotted around Japan also sport this colour.

Amaterasu and Susano’o

One of the smaller, lower shrines with Susano'o's shrine above — One of the smaller, lower shrines with Susano’o’s shrine above

Once again we are confronted with two of Shinto’s principal deities. Amaterasu is the most famous sun goddess. Invariably she is represented by the rising sun. In this location, she is, unusually, the harbinger of sunset.

It is very rare for Amaterasu to be enshrined in the same shrine as her younger brother, Susano’o, the god of storms and seas. Their sibling connection was fraught with conflict, mostly provoked by Susano’o. But here they are together in Hinomisaki Shrine. Amaterasu is enshrined in the lower buildings. Susano’o has his own shrine on the upper floor.

As well as the sunset the adjacent sea was a crucial feature for the local population. From the beginning, on this rocky peninsula, fishing was more important for survival than agriculture.

The upper shrine celebrating Susano'o — The upper shrine celebrating Susano’o

Festival and ritual

Each summer, the Hinomisaki Shrine holds it’s annual Sunset Festival on 7th August. The priests perform a private ritual as the sun sets on nearby Fumishima Island. Hinomisaki Shrine also has an annual sword offering ritual. When Susano’o defeated an eight-headed serpent, a special sword appeared from its dying body. Later, he presented this sword to Amaterasu to atone for his atrocious behaviour towards her in the past. This sword then became part of the Imperial Regalia of Japan. It is fitting that the Hinomisaki Shrine upholds this ritual to celebrate the connection between Amaterasu and Susano’o. Both were only rarely in harmony and here they are enshrined together.

Amaterasu's main shrine on the lower floor — Amaterasu’s main shrine on the lower floor. This carries a sizeable shimenawa, a rope made from plaited rice straw. Shrines in this area are famous for shimenawa which represent the presence of a deity.

There are also functional buildings which the priests use. The second one here has the scissor-shaped finials known as chigi.

Our visit

The day I visited this shrine with Amrapali was our last opportunity. We were returning back home the next morning. By lunchtime it was still wet and windy but we went up the winding, narrow coast road, anyway. Hinomisaki could be called a medium-sized shrine. By the time we had checked out the various buildings, the sky began to clear. Suddenly there were good opportunities for photographs.

We departed with an appreciation of the visual beauty of this shrine. And some pictures of finely detailed, coloured carvings on the main entrance.